Morning Magic: A Local’s Guide to Okunoin at Dawn
Living and working in Koyasan, we are often asked by our guests:
“When is the best time to visit Okunoin?”
Many visitors to Koyasan attend the morning prayer services at their temple lodgings (Shukubo), which is a wonderful experience. However, if you have a chance, I highly recommend heading straight to Okunoin at dawn, you will encounter a very different side of Koyasan — one that feels deeply personal, calm, and timeless.
Witness the Ritual: Shojingu — A Belief That Is Still Alive
The most compelling reason to visit early is to witness the Shojingu—the ritual of offering meals to Kobo Daishi.
The Legend: We believe that Kobo Daishi (Kukai) did not pass away but entered a state of eternal meditation (Nyujo). He is still alive in the mausoleum, praying for our happiness.
The 6:00 AM Procession: Every morning at 6:00 AM, monks carry a large wooden box containing food to the Lantern Hall (Torodo) in front of the mausoleum.
Rain or Shine: This ritual has continued every single day for over 1,200 years. Watching this quiet procession in the crisp morning air is a powerful reminder that the spirit of Kobo Daishi is still very much with us.
This is not a performance for visitors.
It is simply daily life here — quiet, serious, and sincere.
Standing in the cold morning air, watching this procession, you can feel that time in Koyasan moves differently.
Inside the Torodo — Listening, Not Watching
Inside the Torodo (Lantern Hall), the Shojingu ceremony follows a very clear auditory rhythm.
Even if you do not understand the words, your body can sense the structure.
The chanting begins slowly and poetically, almost like a quiet recitation.
It then picks up speed as the sutras are chanted, becoming more rhythmic and powerful.
After that, the monks begin reading individual intentions — very, very fast, almost like a flowing stream of sound.
The ceremony concludes with short, repeated mantras, steady and grounding, bringing the space back into stillness.
We often tell guests: this is a ceremony to listen to, not to watch.
For me, being fully present in that space feels more important than understanding it.
Owner’s Tips & Etiquette
To help you enjoy your experience, here are a few tips from a local perspective:
- No Photos: From the final bridge (Gobiohashi) onwards, photography and video are strictly prohibited. This is a sacred space for prayer. Please put away your phone and experience it with your heart.
- Dress Warmly: Koyasan is in a mountain basin. Even in spring or autumn, the mornings can be surprisingly cold! Please wear an extra layer.
- Purify Yourself: Before entering the Lantern Hall (Torodo), look for a small bowl of powder (Zuko) outside the door. Rub a pinch on your hands to purify yourself—it has a wonderful, calming scent (like cloves and cinnamon).
The Perfect End to Your Morning
After the ceremony, please head back to the guesthouse.
We will be waiting for you with a fresh breakfast accompanied by fresh coffee or our homemade chai. It is the perfect way to warm up your body and relax after the crisp morning air.
We hope you have a wonderful, peaceful morning in Koyasan.
Warm regards,
Ryochi
Owner, Koyasan Guesthouse KOKUU
Photo Credit: All the beautiful photos in this article were taken by my friend. Please check out this Instagram gallery here: @https://www.instagram.com/phylloxera.jp/